Posted 31 July 2007
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| Why are Leger tours not longer ? I could of stayed indefinitely walking the battlefields of Ypres. Firstly many thanks to Leger's weather reservation department for ensuring such a glorious climate. Anyone who has been to Ypres will know what a lovely town it is, as a base it is perfect. Plenty of places to eat and sights to see, with the added attraction of the last post ceremony at the Menin Gate at 8pm every evening without fail. This is probably the 4th time I have stayed in Ypres and have never got tired of the place or run out of things to go. The Hotel we stayed at was the Novotel, 300 metres from the Menin Gate itself. The hotel is very pleasant with good accommodation and bar, with the staff all speaking good English. The breakfast on offer is a mixture of an 'English breakfast' consisting of bacon, sausages, eggs, beans and the more continental style breakfast of cereals, breads, fruit and cold meats. This was very plentiful and pleasant. I must admit to have never of eaten an evening meal in the hotel because of the restaurant options nearby, the menu in the hotel does however look sparse and quite pricey. The tour itself was amazing with 5 walks over the 3 'proper touring days' each probably 4 or 5 miles in distance. To be honest you don't really notice this as there are plenty of stops to see sites of interest. The walk is taken at a reasonable pace and the terrain was not too difficult, even for a novice like myself. Please do not however wear ankle socks whilst breaking in new walking boots, I will not make that mistake again We were fortunate to have Peter Williams and Iain McHenry as our guides, they were excellent. I could listen to Peter all day as he makes history come to life and the sheer enthusiasm of Iain is also something to experience. Their knowledge was first class and their banter was very enjoyable. As a regular battlefield visitor I am very wary of being desensitized to the suffering that we learn about on these trips, however the way the guides link first hand accounts of the events and personalities leave little chance of this happening. For me the I find the foreign cemeteries far more emotional as they are not so well commemorated and that is dreadfully sad. One of the highlights of the week was the lunchtime visit to Varlet Farm, where you sample a wonderful lunch. The female owner was very welcoming and gave us a history of the farm, and gave great account of what it is like being a farmer on a WW1 battlefield. We then received an enthralling 30 minute presentation from said lady on all the finds they have made over the years, just like Peter and Iain, she certain knew her stuff. For those who are thinking on going on this trip, then please do so, especially if you have enjoyed the 'Old Contemptables' or 'All quiet on the Western Front'. You get to see far more of the battlefields walking them yourself as opposed to driving it, a great experience. I hope this review does not sound too much like an advert for Leger as the forum should not be used for that, I have tried to give a accurate report on a tour I could not fault. The only regret I have was not being able to meet Harry Patch who was in Ypres whilst I was there. Iain did manage to meet him and I could tell from his emotions that it meant the world to him. I really envy those at the Menin Gate when he read The Exultation. Harry is a great man amongst many, many great men who are sadly no longer with us.
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Posted 31 July 2007
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| Hi Harmat What a great report ! Time, finance and hols permitting I will be booking this one for next year. With the special trips for 90th anniversary due it will be a squeeze but I'm certainly going to try ! I don't think you need to worry about sounding like an advert for Leger ! It's great to hear first hand about a trip and anyway, we are all Leger supporters already. I agree with you about meeting Harry Patch. I wasn't even in Belgium and feel so envious (bordering on jealous !) of those who met him. He is a marvellous man and I so wish I could talk to him. I remember conversations with my grandfather (and very much regret what I have forgotten) and no book or film can compare with those who were actually there. I'm booked on Passchendaele Remembered Silver Service for October 1st. Anyone else going ? RMA
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Posted 31 July 2007
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| A totally excellent trip report Harmat! RMA, like yourself i had a great uncle who would tell me , as a child, about how he and his fellow soldiers took some enemy trenches and enjoyed drinking the fresh drinking water, that the Germans had, but the British front lines never did. He never said much about the war, only that he was proud to have served his King and Country. Phil..
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Posted 31 July 2007
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| I really enjoyed your report Harmat, thanks for the tremendous effort. I must say, my interest has always been WW11 , but since going on the "All Quiet on the Western Front" trip last year, I have been hooked on the Great War. I would love to do the trip you have described, thanks again. Ed.
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Posted 01 August 2007
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| I remember granddad talking about getting water. he said often the only water was from a shellhole and by the time everyone had taken some they often discovered a body or dead horse in the bottom ! He also talekd about the numerous truces that happened but were never written about. Both sides were often short of food and to supplement their rations would call a ceasefire so everybody could go and pick the mushrooms growing in no-mans-land. He would never eat mushrooms once he got home. For anyone who may be interested his photo is on the Australian War Memorial website...www.awm.gov.au. Search under Royal Marine Artillery and you will see photos of the 15" Howitzer he was on...the biggest of our artillery.. and he was the gunner mentioned in the text. (info I was able to send to the Aussies). RMA
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Posted 02 August 2007
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| Hi Harmat, It was a pleasure to meet you and your good lady on the walking tour. Glad you enjoyed it, and look forward to seeing you again here soon. Best regards Iain
Keeping alive the memory of the men and women who served in the Great War.
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Posted 03 August 2007
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| Hi Iain Thanks once again for a wonderful holiday. I hope you are not too tired after your busy recent schedule. We hope to be back shortly. Maybe to do the 'Walking the Somme Tour' or failing that one of the new tours on Leger's list for 2008. Best wishes Matt
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